I just love when the learning curve is steep. And I love being in nature, in the wild.

Surfing is a life path. You have to really commit... You have to let go and have faith that it's gonna work out when you take off.

I write a lot of environmental stories.

A lot of my nonfiction is very strong environmental stories - I was the first guy to write about the dolphin killings in Japan.

My dad's wife, my stepmom, is a serious painter. My dad also paints. My mother is a brilliant sculptor, and her husband is a sculptor.